The Qilin is a mythical Chinese creature associated with wise benevolent rulers that has been compared to the unicorn, and the giraffe. This year’s harvest is remarkably spice-forward with incense aromatics and a tingling quality that builds up on the tongue over multiple infusions. The spice and complexity of the varietal and the tremendous microclimate within the Wuyi Ecological Preserve are heightened even more by Mr. Li’s generous hand-firing in the finishing process.